Saturday, April 25, 2009

Off The Beaten Path To Southeast Asia


As Southeast Asian tourism heats up, it's harder than ever to find breathing room at the most popular destinations. The annual number of non-stop flights from the U.S. to Asia has almost tripled in the past ten years, and even once-fringe destinations like Vietnam and Cambodia are now regular stops on the well-beaten Southeast Asian travel path. And with tens of millions of newly minted middle-class Chinese citizens gearing up to see the world, things are only going to get more crowded...

I've selected ten destinations in ten countries for you to explore. Some you may have heard of; most you probably haven't.

Dali, China
Tucked away in a corner of Yunnan province about 180 miles west of Kunming and not far from the Myanmar border, this relatively small city located on the shores of Erhai Lake and surrounded by 10,000-foot peaks is home to members of 25 of China's ethnic minorities, most notably the Bai people, whose frequent festivals attract intrepid tourists from around the world. In addition to architectural interest of the old city, the lake itself is Dali's prime attraction. Boat cruises take you to notable sites along the shore, or you can enjoy long shoreline bike rides to visit villages and temples in the vicinity. It's a Chinese experience totally unlike what you'll find in the hyperactive mega-cities of the east.

Luang Prabang, Laos
A star turn in Matt Lauer's "Where in the World" series on the Today Show in 2008 may have inspired an American tourism rush to this important World Heritage Site in the mountains of north-central Laos. Combine that with a rapid increase in the number of Chinese citizens traveling abroad, and this sleepy formal royal capital, most notable for its 33 ancient wooden temples, may soon find itself shedding its delightfully laid-back ways. Before that happens, schedule a few days to explore not only the Buddhist and French colonial architecture but also to venture into the countryside for hiking, waterfall climbing, and visits to traditional Lao villages.

Lombok, Indonesia
Welcome to "the other Bali," an island just to the east of its better known neighbor that's accessible either by air from Jakarta, Singapore or Denpasar, or by a four-hour ferry ride from Bali. Like Bali, Lombok has beaches, diving, trekking and the intense Hindu culture that makes a visit to this corner of the world so memorable. It even has its own active volcano, the 12,224-foot Mount Rinjani. What Lombok doesn't have is the Bali-like crush of tourists (and, it should be noted, some of the convenient tourist infrastructure), although luxury hotel properties are making inroads. The newest entrant is the Hotel Tugu Lombok, from the same company that runs the luxe hotspot Tugu Bali, located along serene Sire beach on the northwest coast.

Hue, Vietnam
While most of the 412,000 Americans who visited Vietnam last year sampled the frenetic bustle of Ho Chi Minh City and the more laid-back colonial elegance of Hanoi, far fewer stopped halfway in between to spend a few days in the former imperial capital of Hue, which, battle-scarred though it may be, is still rich enough in history and architecture to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After exploring the walled Citadel (Vietnam's own Forbidden City), hire a boat and guide and head up the Perfume River to visit the riverside tombs of Vietnam's 19th-century emperors. For extra adventure, take a day trip to visit the famous Vietcong tunnels, and recover from the experience with a massage. Like many Southeast Asian cities, Hue has massage facilities staffed by blind experts who work their magic at bargain prices. Book the Imperial Hotel for its river views.
Hua Hin, Thailand
With Phuket fully recovered from the 2004 tsunami and eager to welcome more visitors than ever, including millions of sun-seeking Chinese travelers, it's time to discover less well-known relaxation destinations on the Thai coast. Just 130 miles south of Bangkok is Hua Hin, an exclusive getaway for the Bangkok elite (including the royal family) that features several new luxe boutique resorts such as the highly regarded Chiva-Som. Committed to offering the best of Thailand (sun, sand, gracious hospitality) while discouraging the worst (beachfront karaoke, souvenir stalls, group tours), Hua Hin is an especially gracious getaway. For a special experience, arrive not by car or plane but by train; it's a three-hour ride from Bangkok.

Bagan , Myanmar
A thousand years ago, Bagan was the capital of several successive Burmese kingdoms. Today, what remains in the 16-square-mile area 90 miles southwest of Mandalay are more than 2,000 well-preserved temples and pagodas, most dating back to the 11th through 13th centuries. Unfortunately, literal and figurative barriers to entry make travel here only for the truly adventurous, in great part because the ruling military junta is suspicious of outsiders and imposes some travel restrictions on tourists even as it simultaneously pockets a healthy cut of tourism dollars that flow into the country. Perhaps the best way to free your mind from the strife on the ground is to float above it on a Bagan hot air balloon safari.


Battamabang, Cambodia
As hordes of tourists descend upon Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat, you can head west for a taste of the less-traveled Cambodia and explore the nation's second-largest city, where a remarkable amount of gracefully crumbling French Colonial architecture remains and the Angkor-like temples on the outskirts of town aren't yet overwhelmed by visitors. Plan to hire a driver and guide to take you on a tour of the surrounding countryside, and hire a boat to get an intimate look at riverside life. You can even travel between Battambang and Siem Reap (home of Angkor Wat) by slow or fast boat (nine hours or four hours) across the vast Tonle Sap lake if you have the time and the stamina for it.

Galle, Sri Lanka
Even Sri Lanka, a destination much more popular with Europeans than Americans, has exotic treasures to offer. The seaside city of Galle is starting to attract new international attention. According to Miguel Cunat, who manages upscale travel company SriLankaInStylecom, "To the seasoned traveler it's the new Marrakesh. To the tropical second-home owner it's the new Bali. To the beach lover it's the new Riviera." With its 17th-century Dutch fort, UNESCO World Heritage-quality Dutch colonial architecture and a heavy schedule of festivals and events, Galle—now recovered from 2004 tsunami damage—is having its moment.

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